Andryo's Blog

1 September – 5 September 2010 – I will only use initials for names

I was suppose to go to Sweden last year, in the summer of 2009. But I had to cancel Sweden, and had to be satisfied with only to Norway (which was amazing, btw). The reason for the cancellation was my friend – (S)’s brother, (P), committed suicide. Yes, you read it correctly, suicide. He was 20 years old. Although I have met (S)’s mother and sister (Sa), but I have never met (P).

One Saturday, (P) said to his mother that he was going cycling, but never came back. The following Monday, a person was running in the forest and found him dead, hanging from a tree, then reported to the police. A policeman then came and knocked on the door, only to tell them about the bad news in such an inconsiderate way. The mother screamed hysterically.

- From the story I heard -

One theory… suicide rate in the Scandinavian countries are high because life is rather easier there. So they are not quite used to having difficulties in life. Call me ignorant, call me stupid, but this is just one theory. If you don’t have a job, state pays you money. Education and healthcare are absolutely free. Well I know many European countries offer this kind of social benefit system. But I have been to most countries in Western and Northern Europe, and I have never felt as peaceful as when I was in Norway and Sweden.

Graveyard in Sweden

Other theory is because the lack of sunlight in the winter, which is really depressing, believe me. Sun rises at 7 or 8 AM, and sets at 3 or 4 PM. In some northern most part, sun does not rise at all for a while.

Stockholm

A year later, I finally went to Sweden. I spent 3 days with (S) in Stockholm, a great city. Did pretty much the touristic stuff; boat ride around Stockholm (Stockholm is made of 14 islands), Swedish food, sightseeing the old town, central part, south part, etc; night out at a club that plays all-Swedish-hits, and met lots of people.

(S) and me on a boat ride

Nightclub in Stockholm

I must say life there is very comfortable. I can say it’s quite easy to survive there, having most (if not all) of the infrastructure working well.

Houses in Falköping

After Stockholm, I went to (S)’s home town Falköping for 2 days. It’s a small town around 3 hours away by train from Stockholm. There I finally met her dad and saw her home. Again, I felt the same sensation like when I was in Norwegian homes. Everything was like in a postcard.

Swedish Forest

We went to the forest to pick berries and mushrooms. Being brought up in the city, I have never done this, and felt very excited about it. Funny thing happened, we got lost for about an hour in the forest.

Couple of months before, (S) did an interview at a radio station about (P)’s suicide, and her family’s situation. The interview was intended to help other people with similar problem. Apparently the interview went very well, and they decided to broadcast it on national TV. So when I was there, the family was looking for (P)’s and family photos for the TV broadcast.

It was very emotional, they were looking at family photos, reminiscing for every memory they had with (P). And I was right there with them choosing photos. I was very much touched and instantly remembered of my own family and how I miss them so much. There, I felt that they really accepted me staying there with them. Maybe this is a bit funny but I felt like a part of the family at some point. Especially when we were singing, (S) and her mother were crying and hugged each other tight. I can see the way her mother looked at me and sort of hold my head. Okay maybe I am a bit weird feeling this way. But I was happy and sad at the same time. It was quite weird feeling as well, because when I stayed there, I was sleeping in (P)’s bed.

Göteborg

I took my flight from Gothenburg, so I went alone by train and stayed there for half a day to see and enjoy the city before finally went to the airport and took the flight. Gothenburg is really clean, peaceful, and quite a compact city. The airport (Gothenburg City Airport) was a bit funny though, which is more similar to a bus station than an airport.

As part of my journey to Galicia, North West Spain, we drove to Portugal just for the sake of it, cause I have never been to Portugal before. We drove from Santiago de Compostela and we chose the city Valença for our destination, as it is very close to the border, and it is a unique town. It was a really nice journey, seeing hills and beaches on the side. The view was awesome!

Hills on the way to Portugal

Hills and beaches

Road to Portugal View

On the seaside, we can find a lot of Vatea, sort of like black boxes on the sea to catch clams and oyster. A waiter from a restaurant explained to me how it works, by having ropes underneath where the organizm grows.

vatea

The drive itself took around 2-3 hours as we were really relaxing, stopping for food etc. Don’t know why, I am always happy seeing countries sign. It is just very easy now to cross borders.

Portugal Sign

Valença, Portugal

Valença is surrounded by stone walls from the middle age. The gate to enter the town is just one small lane, fits for just one car, controlled by a traffic light.

Gate to Valença

Valença Narrow Gate

Valença Stone Walls

Streets in Valença are narrow and made of stones. Spanish people always have jokes that they go to Portugal just to buy towels because it is so much cheaper there. The street markets are also narrow with lots of people selling stuff on the side. Wine shops are relatively cheaper here, and they have lots of varieties.

Valença Narrow Lanes

Valença Street Markets

Valença Wine Shop

Food and Wine

While I was in Portugal, I made myself to drink Porto / Port Wine and eat some Bacalhau (codfish), typical fish from Portugal. Every area has its own way of preparing the Bacalhau.

Port Wine in Valença

Bacalhau

We didn’t spend much time in Valença. But we did visit a random museum, Núcleo Museológico de Valença, and saw the miniature of Valença. The view from the city walls are not bad as well with a countryside feeling.

Valença Miniature

View from Valença

After a little while spending the day in Valença, we headed back to Spain, or should I say Espanha (in Portuguese).

Back to Spain

Espanha

6 September – 9 September 2010

Galicia is a different kind of Spain. The nature is nothing like Spain you know. It’s very green, hilly, and wet. It looks more like Ireland and Wales instead of Spain.

Location

Galicia is located in North West Spain, by the Atlantic sea, north of Portugal.

Galicia in Spain

The Travel

I used to live for a year with Sabela, a Galician, when I was studying in the Uni. I made a promise to her and her friends that before I go back to Indonesia, I would definitely visit Galicia. I am (or trying to be) a man of my words, so 3 years later I did visit Galicia. I went there after my visit to Sweden, but as there was no direct flight from Gothenburg, I made an overnight transit in London Stansted. Yeah, I slept on the floor at the airport (I do this quite often to be honest). From London Stansted I took the flight to Santiago where Sabela now lives to teach at some school.

I have heard so much about Galician food. Being located by the sea, it has the best seafood (probably in the world). She picked me up at the airport, drove me to her place to put my stuff, then we went walking around the city central, then to an Octopus restaurant / Pulperia. There I ate Pulpo ala Gallega (there, it’s just pulpo) and pimientos de padron, a plate full of pepper, some are spicy, some are not – but as I am Asian, nothing is really spicy for me LOL.

Pulpo ala Gallega

Pimientos de Padron

The Famous “Walk” to Santiago de Compostela

Santiago is known for the famous “walk” (Camino de Santiago de Compostela Pilgrimage / The Way of St James), where people walk to Santiago’s Cathedral from everywhere in Europe. Mostly from Portugal, some parts of Spain, and France. I came across a lot of pilgrims there, they are friends, families, some don’t even know each other and have just met on their journey.

Santiago Cathedral

Santiago Pilgrims

The Holy Year

Every now and again, they have what they call “the holy year” in which they open the “forgiveness door” at the Cathedral. I was quite lucky ’cause then (2010) was the holy year. The next holy year is in 11 years (2021). Having said this, I was also unlucky ’cause it is naturally more crowded. I queued to enter the sacred door, but the guard stopped the line just in front of my face as it was their closing time. I was literally 10 meters away from the door.

Forgiveness Door Queue

Santiago is a very old city. In the central part, every lane is a narrow lane with squares / plazas everywhere, made of stone. It is so amazing that I felt like I was in the middle age. The neighbors are very close, people are friendly, bars and pubs are like everywhere as it is a student town as well.

Santiago's Narrow Lane

Good thing is Sabela knows a lot of people there, including pubs / bars owners. They give me A LOT of complimentary drinks, probably because they think I am like an exotic man from Indonesia. I am pretty sure I was the first Indonesian they know in person. The guy on the right is the owner of the pub, the guy in the middle is his bartender. The girls are Sabela’s friends. This photo was taken after some Estrella Galicia (Galician beer), Alvariño (Galician white wine), Mencía (Galician red wine), Crema de Orujo (cream coffee liquer, similar like Baileys), and Licor Café, equals my face LOL.

Pub in Santiago

Drinks in Galicia is very cheap. Just go to a bar and order some beer or wine with tapas (normally included), it will cost just around 2 Euros, sometimes less.

Estrella Galicia Beer

Wine and Tapas

Road Trip – Galicia

Sabela was very kind to drive me around Galicia. She drove me to 3 Galician provinces: A Coruña, Pontevedra, and Lugo. First we went to Cangas (across Vigo) area to eat some seafood by the beach, just north of the Spanish-Portuguese border. There we ate this strange long clam thing called Navajas, and Almejas al Alvariño (oyster with Galician wine sauce). A-M-A-Z-I-N-G, not to mention the view of the ocean. Oh my.. so lovely.

Navajas and the view

Almejas al Albariño

After the meal, we headed off to Cabo Home, a place that has like a hill right next to the ocean. It is very similar with the terrains in Ireland and Britain.

Cabo Home

From here, we had 2 options for the next destination. There was these islands nearby that have been voted many times having the best beach in the world, Cíes Islands (Las Islas Cies). But as we needed to go by ferry, and we don’t really have that much time, so we decided to drive to Portugal, cause I have never been to Portugal. But I won’t discuss Portugal trip here.

Ponte Vedra

After Portugal, we drove to Ponte Vedra (meaning “old or ancient bridge”), the city where Sabela studied for 2 years. It is a very compact town, very small, everything is in walking distance, also a student town, pubs and bars are everywhere, and very old. Similar with Santiago, the central is formed by narrow lanes and plazas / squares made of stone.

Square in Pontevedra

Pontevedra Streets

There is this small pier by the river which was very beautiful in my opinion, but smells horrible LOL. The light is so amazing. The photo is natural, non-edited.

Pontevedra

A Coruña

Next destination is A Coruña. I don’t know why, I love this city. A Coruña is surrounded by the sea, cause it is formed like a round bay with only one entrance and exit by car via a highway. The city itself is very compact, quite small to walk everywhere in the central, and like many European cities, modern and old blends into one.

We just spent one day there, started with having lunch at a nice restaurant with Sabela and her friends. I was quite surprised cause the waiter can speak English fluently.

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I ate a lot of new Spanish meals here thanks to them. I tried Jamon Iberico (probably the finest ham in the world), Piqullo-con Bacallau (fish filled pepper), Raxo, and Vuevos con Patatas y Jamon (Eggs with potatos and ham).

After this, we went walking in the city. The beaches are amazing.. well probably not that amazing, but the idea of having a lot of beaches just by walking distance from where you work and live is freaking awesome, don’t you think? We can also see Deportivo la Coruna stadium from the beach. A little further on the other side of the city, we can find the pier which is nice and small. At one end of the city, we can find a very old light house called Torre de Hercules. The meaning needs no explanation.

As Pontes and Vilalba

After A Coruña, we drove to As Pontes, where Sabela is from. Now this city is quite funny. It has the second tallest chimney in Europe, and nothing else. Literally nothing else. Many Galician people refers As Pontes similar as Springfield (from The Simpsons). Now there’s not much to tell here to be honest, but as I heard, the town has the highest number of educated youngsters in Spain (don’t take this for granted).

As Pontes Chimney

When I told my other Galician friend when she asked me where did I go in Galicia, I also mentioned As Pontes and Vilalba, and it cracks her up… She couldn’t stop laughing.

Vilalba is where Sabela’s grandmother lives. Sabela has set up so we can have a Galician lunch there. One of my colleague from work who is also Galician told me, if I want to eat Pulpo ala Gallega, it has to be made by a fat old woman / grandmother for it tastes nicer. So I was really looking forward for this lunch.

Sabela's Grandmother

Pulpo

One thing to note when eating Pulpo ala Gallega is we cannot drink water. It has to be something else, like wine, milk, or whatever. I am not really sure why.

Recommendation

My trip to Galicia is one of my memorable holidays. I was very impressed by the hidden jewel there. Not many people know about the beauty of Galicia. They usually know Barcelona, Madrid, and Andalucia (south of Spain). But I am quite happy with this fact, so it is not so crowded with tourists here.